on technique and guidance

"I am always doing things I can't do, that's how I get to do them." -- Pablo Picasso

a wise climbing sage once said, "when you are starting out, climb below your level for a while." the advice seems prudent. if you're new to the sport of climbing you have to give your body time to adjust to the new stresses on your fingers, shoulders, back and arms.

at the climbing gym yesterday i worked up a 5.7, two 5.8s and then moved to another slight overhanging 5.8 that has perplexed me for a few days. as hard as i tried, and over four attempts, i would pump out and fall at the same exact spot. it was frustrating to say the least. as i sat on the mat staring up at the pink 5.8, i wondered what i was doing wrong or what i was missing. i've done a few 5.9s before so i was perplexed.

i casually said hello to someone bouldering next to me and he asked what i was working on. i told him the story of the pink 5.8. "you can do this," he said. he then gave me five pieces of advice that were golden: 1) keep your hips to the wall; 2) it's all legs. push up. if you rely on your arms you will pump out; 3) always keep your arms extended. flexed arms holding your weight will tire you unnecessarily; 4) move smoothly and deliberately. dance up the wall; 5) breathe. "now try it," he said. i was waiting for him to go back to his bouldering but instead he waited there while i prepared to climb. first attempt. i get past the problem area and within two holds of the top. i fall. a few minutes of rest. second attempt. i make it to the top.

mind over rock.