read (and reread) your climbing guide
funny story. i went to keystone on saturday to climb with my friend erik. after our usual wandering time - time spent looking for the wall - we found alpenglow. erik had his guide book and identified what he thought was a 5.9 route. he starts leading and i notice that he's having a bit of a hard time getting up. after much serious effort he gets to the top. i belay him down and then try it myself. after a few moves, i'm thinking. there's no way this could be a 5.9. erik picks up his climbing book and rereads the map. "david, you're going to hate me. this is a 5.11d."

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