the diary of a [newbie] rock climber

i've recently discovered the intoxication that is rock climbing. what follows is a collection of random thoughts, experiences and images related to my newbie rock climbing adventures. note: climbing is a dangerous activity. these are only my opinions and shouldn't be substituted for good sense and education. climb safely and at your own risk.

11.13.2005

becoming a leader

finally. im leading. (lead climbing involves using protection (i.e. metal bolts, cams, quick draws, etc.) to protect yourself throughout a climb. protection is normally placed every five to ten feet. The climber can fall approximately two times their distance above the last piece of protection (if the climber is 3 feet above the last piece they can fall 6 feet).)

the last three weeks have mostly been spent gym climbing, but i did get to go outside last week. my friends erik and todd called to let me know they were heading down to clear creek canyon near golden. i decided to meet them. after one 5.10a climb we decided it was getting a bit cold and that it might be good to head back to town. because it's a canyon, a hidden sun in november usually means lots of shivering. after i packed my bag todd suggested we do one more route. i was reluctant, but eventually agreed. long story short, i ended up leading a 5.7. it was my first lead since my august 5.2 lead in the san luis valley. not sure why it took so long, but im often reluctant when im worried i don't know technique well enough. thankfully todd and erik encouraged me that day. yesterday i lead two 5.9s at the gym. im liking it. i just need more practice. also, i finally completed a V2 bouldering problem at the gym. climbing takes patience, but the rewards are awesome.

which brings me to an oservation about climbing as sport. unlike team sports or even most individual sports, climbing has fixed problems. problems/routes that don't really change (they'll change at the gym, but they are usually around just long enough.) i can't really think of many athletic activites that allow you to revist static problems/challenges over and over again until you figure them out. once you've succesfully "problem solved," wow, what a friggin' rush!

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