photo redux

here's a different take on a photo i posted of eric a few weeks back.

time out(side)

i got outside on both thursday and saturday. thursday = north table. saturday = clear creek canyon. both times in golden, co. each day with a different group. i met thursday's group on rockclimbing.com and the other introduction worked out through craigslist.org . it seems that there are plenty of people open to partnering with new climbers. it's all about attitude, experience and openness. what i'm starting to realize, however, is that i have to quickly learn to lead and clean effectively. you can't just top rope indefinitely. i wish i had the money to take some intensive climbing classes!

interesting story from saturday. i went out climbing with this new guy greg. on his first attempt of the day, on a 5.10, he lost his footing, whacked right into the rock and sprained his ankle. tough tough way to go down. i felt bad for him. i had my camera right in his face but decided it might not be cool to start taking pictures of him. i need to get to know some of these people better so that i can photograph them in any situation. good or bad.

chad and i kept climbing. i made it up a 5.9 and then we decided it was time to head back to the car. short day.

training

Here's a good outdoor climbing introduction I came across online: First Outdoor Guide. Simple but solid advice.

I climbed at the gym on Monday and then again today, Wednesday. Tuesday was my sabbath. I rested. My plan over the next few weeks is to focus on endurance training by doing "laps" at the gym. There's a 5.7 route below the auto belay device that I climb nonstop for about 15-20 minutes at a time. I climb, rest for another 15-20 minutes, climb, rest, climb. It takes about an hour and a half, but I'm definitely feeling stronger as a result. The goal is to avoid the dreaded "pump" during these laps. On Monday I pumped out. Today, I did the three sets and mostly avoided feeling the pump. I got close though. My elbow started feeling a bit sensitive too, but I kept going. I'm really trying to ease into this without getting an injury. I may climb outdoors tomorrow with someone I met online. Boring post, yes, I know. ;)

on technique and guidance

"I am always doing things I can't do, that's how I get to do them." -- Pablo Picasso

a wise climbing sage once said, "when you are starting out, climb below your level for a while." the advice seems prudent. if you're new to the sport of climbing you have to give your body time to adjust to the new stresses on your fingers, shoulders, back and arms.

at the climbing gym yesterday i worked up a 5.7, two 5.8s and then moved to another slight overhanging 5.8 that has perplexed me for a few days. as hard as i tried, and over four attempts, i would pump out and fall at the same exact spot. it was frustrating to say the least. as i sat on the mat staring up at the pink 5.8, i wondered what i was doing wrong or what i was missing. i've done a few 5.9s before so i was perplexed.

i casually said hello to someone bouldering next to me and he asked what i was working on. i told him the story of the pink 5.8. "you can do this," he said. he then gave me five pieces of advice that were golden: 1) keep your hips to the wall; 2) it's all legs. push up. if you rely on your arms you will pump out; 3) always keep your arms extended. flexed arms holding your weight will tire you unnecessarily; 4) move smoothly and deliberately. dance up the wall; 5) breathe. "now try it," he said. i was waiting for him to go back to his bouldering but instead he waited there while i prepared to climb. first attempt. i get past the problem area and within two holds of the top. i fall. a few minutes of rest. second attempt. i make it to the top.

mind over rock.

fingers. ouch. easy.

i've been gym climbing twice this week. i arrive around 1pm when there are only about 5 people doing their thing. its been fun and folks are friendly. i visited on monday and again today for about an hour.

since it's just me, i quietly boulder and then use the auto belay thingamajig (from indoorclimbing.com - "Some indoor rock climbing walls have auto belay systems installed. These allow the climber to climb unassisted with a top rope. The auto belay system takes up rope or wire as the climber ascends the wall. Auto belay systems will give out slack with low force, but if sudden force is applied as in a fall, it will lock.")

pumping out = spaghetti arms. i've been getting pumped out fairly quickly and have grudgingly concluded that i should curb my enthusiasm a bit. i'm trying to be patient and listen to my body. any time i exercise i warm up for about 5 minutes, and then stretched for another 5. at 30 years of age, i have to be careful with pulling or tweaking my muscles.

it's interesting that some 5.9s feel less challenging than 5.8s. different path colors do that too me.

speaking of tweaking muscles. my fingers have been hurting a bit. i don't think i've caused any serious tendon damage, but who the hell knows. just trying to take it easy out there. livin', laughin' and learnin'.

how to climb - the complete guide

rock and ice magazine published a "how to climb" guide back in july that i picked up at the book store for $3.99. it has a few too many adverts in it, but i found the articles and advice generally helpful. good information for the newbie climber. it includes details on: belay, rappel, lead, toprope, set pro, and building anchors.

penitente and witch's canyon - san luis valley, co

what a crazy week! after spending two "work days" in the san luis valley, i've been running around trying to catch up on the photo business. i still have a ton of photographs to edit from the trip but will add at least two today.

the san luis valley is incredibly beautiful. while there, the weather was awesome; a bit hot during the day, but there are plenty of rocks to be found in the shade. witch's canyon seems to have the best shade areas. there were two huge youth/school groups around on monday which made penitente canyon a bit crowded. it took some patience to find less busy areas. some of the climbs we tried on monday include the serpent (5.7), the breeze (5.2) - which i toproped. my first. toproping can be a bit scary, even on an easy grade climb. it was exciting to do successfully. we (erik and his friend todd) also worked on thank huecos a 5.10c(?). erik was the leader and also cleaned the route since todd and i couldn't get up. we did manage to get about a 1/6th of the way up before some fancy layback* techniques were required. (* "technique of pushing on a face with feet while pulling with the hand on an opposing edge or crack")

we grilled some of erik's great food on monday night and then crashed in the back of his truck. talk about cramped. imagine three dudes in the bed of a truck with sleeping bads. ive never humped a wheel well so much.

tuesday morning erik and i tried a 5.10a. i didn't get very far, but liked knowing what's technically ahead for me. after returning to the camp site and meeting todd, we went over to witch's canyon. we did two 5.9s and and tried a very slaby 5.10c, and another 5.10a. i can't do 5.10s yet, but feel i'll get there soon. we left witch's at around 7pm and made the drive back home after a beer.

is this getting serious? i joined a climbing gym today. rockin' and jamin' of thornton. i did some bouldering for about an hour and took advantage of their summer promo. prepaid membership for 6 months, off hours, $189. my goal is to make it there 2-3 times a week. i'll write about the gym experience soon.

some photos from the trip.

phew. im back

more narrative to come. for now, enjoy the flyer ...