the diary of a [newbie] rock climber

i've recently discovered the intoxication that is rock climbing. what follows is a collection of random thoughts, experiences and images related to my newbie rock climbing adventures. note: climbing is a dangerous activity. these are only my opinions and shouldn't be substituted for good sense and education. climb safely and at your own risk.

9.12.2005

it's rappel, not self-rappel, mm k?

i made it out to clear creek canyon today with a new climbing friend, andy. andy is very systematic in his approach to climbing and (patiently) spent half the time correcting my sloppy technique and misused verbal commands. i needed his scolding, er advice. it felt a bit boot camp-ish at times but all very much well worth it. here's an example:

david: "ya got me? im coming down." andy: "it's take! that's the command. by yelling take the belayer should know you are relying on him to bring you down."

we also got into a bit of confusion on off-belay commands. we worked on that too. at the end of the day, we managed five total 5.9s and 5.10+s. i rappeled (not "self-rappeled" since you can technically only rappel solo) four of the routes. i didn't lead anything, but that's what I'm working on next. i now feel fairly confident in my ability to clean and rappel down 5.9s and 5.10-s. slow, steady, onward.

9.11.2005

read (and reread) your climbing guide

funny story. i went to keystone on saturday to climb with my friend erik. after our usual wandering time - time spent looking for the wall - we found alpenglow. erik had his guide book and identified what he thought was a 5.9 route. he starts leading and i notice that he's having a bit of a hard time getting up. after much serious effort he gets to the top. i belay him down and then try it myself. after a few moves, i'm thinking. there's no way this could be a 5.9. erik picks up his climbing book and rereads the map. "david, you're going to hate me. this is a 5.11d."

9.08.2005

a first. 5.10-

i accept. given perspective, personal climbing milestones are insignificant. with hurricanes, a war in iraq, it's sometimes easy to get caught-up in our own small world of crags, 'beaners and good fitting shoes. i do, however, think that we should harness the powers of climbing for good. i bet you there would be fewer fights and wars, perhaps, if folks learned to channel their stresses and anger into shifting higher. just a thought. i digress.

two cool things happened today. i did my first "serious" bouldering problem, and i made it up a 5.10-. when i arrived today, the auto-belay device was being used by a few climbers so i decided to give bouldering a shot. i found a V0 and made it up easily. i then found a V1 and after four tries figured out how to get to the last grip. the problem solving element of bouldering is great fun. i'd definitely like to do more.

i offered to help someone belay today. after some chit chat, i revealed that i'd yet to try a 5.10 indoors, and that my 5.10 attempts were unsuccessful. we navigated up about three 5.9s and then she said, "i think you should try a 5.10". convinced, i made my way up a 5.10-. hurrah! my first clean 5.10! we then tried another 5.10 i couldnt negotiate. boo. it was still a great day. another bridge crossed.

i'll be hitting the o
utdoors with erik on saturday in keystone. i'm so looking forward to more outdoor rock.

9.01.2005

going vertical

i've missed posting! the last week has been a bit hectic. i recently spent three days doing trail maintenance on mt. princeton through the colorado 14ers initiative. it was an awesome time. on saturday a few of us climbed to the summit.

gym climbing is coming along. i haven't climbed outdoors in almost two weeks! summer is quickly fading. someone get me outside. stat! gym climbing is helping me build a good physical foundation. i can feel it. here's a photo from the summit mt. princeton.